Hiunchuli was first
summited by an American Peace Corps Expedition
under the leadership of Craig Anderson
in October 1971. Although it is easy to
reach the mountain and the popularity
of the Annapurna Sancutary with trekkers
and climbers, the actual ascent of Hinuchuli
is considered one of the most difficult
among the trekking peaks. South-East Face
Route: The route to base camp starts from
Hinko Cave on the Annapurna Sanctuar trail.
After establishing the first camp somewhere
above the valley floor a further 2 camps
are neccessary to make it to the top.
Although not technically extreme this
route is exposed to rockfall and serac
dangers and is a complicated route-finding
experience. North-West Face Route: The
ascent by the North-West Face has been
attempted only by a very few climbers
and not always successfully. The exact
route is not well known. The approach
is from the Annapurna Base Camp in the
Sanctuary and a further 2 camps may be
necessary to complet this not so well
SOUTH EAST FLANK &
Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya
Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and the
lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. Proper
care should be taken to avoid the possible
avalanche in the event of heavy snowfall.
From the base camp, a
well-acclimatized party in good conditions
can make the summit and return to the
base camp in a day. However, most of the
climbers prefer alpine style camping at
high camp, which adds the joy of climbing
and helps a safe ascent. From the base
camp the route skirts southeast around
and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep
grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We
scramble up on open gully which leads
between two ridges to the site of high
camp on at 5, 280m.
From the high camp, the
lefts hand ridge scramble across the broad
open gully. After crossing a gully a steep
snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly
100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing
near the summit is a little difficult
due to steep climbing.
Day 01 : arrive in kathmandu.
Day 02 : Briefing and In Kathmandu,
sightseeing Kathmandu Valley
Day 03 : Drive Pokhara to Phedi.
Trek to Dhampus.
Day 19 : Drive back to kathmandu.
Day 20 : Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 21 : Departure day.
A minimum of 2 participants is required.