Langtang National Park north of Kathmandu.
region is a popular destination for climbing snow peaks
and spectacular panoramic views of mountains in Nepal
and Tibet. Easy access to the region and availability
of several snow peaks scattered around for acclimatization
make this region an ideal destination for novice as
well as experienced climbers. Naya Kanga is an attractive
peak rising to the west of the Ganja La pass (5,122m/16,800ft)
. Ascending to Ganja La and the summit of Naya Kanga
offer the spectacular panoramic views of mountains in
Nepal and Tibet including Langshisa Ri (6,370m/20,894ft),
Pemthang Ri (6,836m/22,422ft), Shisapangma (8,046m/27,749ft),
Langtang Lirung (7,425m/24,354ft), Pemthang Kapro Ri
(6,830m/22,402ft) and Langtang II (6,571m/21,553ft).
The normal route of ascent to Naya Kanga is via the
north - east ridge over a line on ice and snow. We follow
the route of Langtang trek to Kyangjin (3,749m/12,297ft)
for the ascent of Naya Kanga. To the north above Kangjin,
there are several hills that provide both the magnificent
views and acclimatization. Northeast of Kyangjin Ri
(4,700m/15,416ft), there are two peaks; Yala Peak (5,500m/18,040ft)
and Tsergo Peak (5,749m/18,857ft) that provide good
climbing for acclimatization.
Naya Kanga Climb from North-East Face & North
Crossing the Langtang Khola below Kyangjin, we climb
steeply along the ridge through a forest of rhododendron
and juniper. Finally climbing more gently, we arrive
at yak pastures of Ngegang at about 4000m. We continue
following the trail to Ganja La climbing steeply through
moraine . We leave Ganja La trail to climb steeply up
yet more moraine to reach the eastern end of the glacier
shelf beneath the north-east face of Naya Kanga. We
set up the high camp here for the ascent. We cross the
glacier shelf to the foot of a shallow couloir heading
to the north ridge. We climb the couloir to the notch
and the base of the ridge . Then we turn to the ice
nose on the left which is only the technical section
on the climb. Now the ridge widens and leads to a small
col. on the east-west summit ridge and the summit is
only 30m higher to the right. The climb near the summit
should be done carefully. Normally, the ascent takes
5-7 hours from the high camp. For the return trek, we
may follow Ganja La-Helambu route or back the way we
came in to Dhunche.
SUGGESTED ITINERARY for Naya Kanga Expedition:
Day 01: Kathmandu - Syabru by bus.
Days 02-04: Through the Langtang valley to Kyanjin.
Day 05: Rest day and local exploration. .
Days 06-07: Acclimatization climb of Yala Peak.
Days 08-09: Trek towards Ganjala pass.
Day 10: Trek to Naya Kanga Base Camp.
Day 11: Climb to High Camp and prepare for Naya Kanga
Day 12: Naya Kanga Expedition to summit. Return to Base
Day 13-16: Trek back to Dunche and drive to Kathamndu.
Days 13-20: Trek via Helambu to Kathamndu.
End of Ganjala chuli climbing Expedition.
Contact us for further information: getaway#mail.com.np