Peak Expedition from the South East
& South-West Ridge
Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab
(5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine
of the Imja Glacier. It should not be forgotten
that the place is more likely for avalanche in
the event of heavy snow fall. From the base camp,
a well acclimatized party in good conditions can
make the summit and return to the base camp in
a day. However, most of the climbers prefer establisheing
a High-Camp which helps a safe ascent. From the
base camp the route skirts south east around and
base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes
and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open
gully which leads between two ridges to the site
of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and
to the right of a small hanging glacier (5,280m).
From the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble
across the broad open gully. After crossing a
gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for
nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing
near the summit is a little difficult due to steep
climbing. In recent times the snow slopes below
the summit has developed some large crevasses
making the final ascent to the top difficult.
Peak Climb from the North Ridge Route
First ascent was in 1958 by Alf Gregory, Dick
Cook and two Sherpas. North of the main summit
the ridge continues to a col (5,700m). The route
climbs the ridge from the col, which is reached
by following the true right bank of the Imja Glacier
and later the moraines on the right bank of the
Lhotse Sar Glacier, before climbing north-west
over snowy slopes to the col. On the first ascent,
a camp was placed on the col. From the col, follow
the ridge which is a magnificient snow arete,
due south. This steepens for the final summit
pyramid. This a long ridge that would be difficult
under soft snow conditions and may under other
contiditions have a marked cornice. The climb
is a little more difficult than the normal route,
and is graded alpine PD+.
Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Namche.
Day 03: Acclimatization day at Namche.
Days 04-05: Trek Namche-Thyangboche-Pheriche.
Day 06: Acclimatization day at Pheriche.
Days 07-09: Lobuche - Kalapattar - Everest Base
Days 10-11: Trek to Chukung-Island Peak base camp.
Days 12-14: Island Peak climb.
Days 15-19: Return trek to Lukla.
Day 20: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu. End of Island
This peak can
be combined with others like Phokalde, Island
Peak, or Lobuche East. The trekking route can
include crossing the Chola pass into the Gokyo
Join Island Peak climb
and Everest base camp trek]
us for further information: getaway#mail.com.np