Khumbu Himal in the Everest Area
are two distinct summits to Lobuje Peak - Lobuje
East (6,119m/20,070ft) and Lobuje West (6,145m/20,161ft).
Although they are connected by a continuous ridge
there is a sharp gap and a considerable distance
between them. Lobuje is an attractive summit,
offering a variety of existing routes and a wide
scope for new lines. Seen from near Pheriche,
the dark triangle of its rocky East Face rises
above the moraines of the Khumbu Glacier to an
icy skyline. This skyline forms the South Ridge,
the junction of the East Face with the glaciated
South-West Face and the line of the normal route
of ascent. This in turn leads to the summit ridge
running north-west from the top of East Face through
several small summits to the East Peak.
East: The true East Peak is quite striking
and is reached by descending into marked notch
and climbing steep snow/ice slopes to the top.
This is rarely climbed and is often mistaken for
Lobuje West. Most attempts on the mountain climb
the summit ridge only as far as subsidiary snow
summit, before the notch, south-east of the true
peak. The false summits east of the notch have
been attained by numerous parties, but the first
recorded ascent of the true Lobuje East seems
to have been made by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa
Ang Gyalzen on 25th April 1984.
ITINERARY for Lobuje East Peak climb:
Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Namche.
Day 03: Acclimatization day at Namche.
Days 04-05: Trek Namche-Thyangboche-Dingboche.
06: Acclimatization day at Dingboche.
Days 07-09: Lobuje - Kalapattar - Everest BaseCamp
Days 10: Trek to Lobuje East base camp.
Days 11-14: Lobuje East Peak Climb
Days 15-17: Return trek to Lukla.
Day 18: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu. End of Lobuje
East Peak Expedition.
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